Saturday, March 13, 2010

Walking on Saturday

After working in the early morning to develop one of the courses that I will teach in April, I took off for a long walk. I turned right out of the door whereas my usual routine takes me to the left. I decided to go find a neighborhood restaurant that had been recently recommended to me.

I was struck by two sensations. First, the colors! I find people in the United States have the stereotype that Central Europe is gray. Far from it! My land lady assures me that Pecs has always been colorful, that this is not a recent innovation. Secondly, what I was hearing was a cacophony of sound from the melting snow. The water was both dripping and rushing down the metal drain spouts, hitting the stone gutters on the street, dripping from the roofs -- an amazing sound. The world is totally different when there is not automobile traffic.

Walking a bit more I came upon a building that surely needs some loving care. It still has all the beautiful decoration about the windows and the roof line, and of course, since this is Hungary, somone has attached a beautiful street lamp.

A few steps more and I was at the northeast corner of the old city wall. I continued walking up some serious hills. The thought crossed my mind that this walk is probably much better done on a cool spring day than a warm/hot summer day.

In about five minutes I came upon an interesting view. Ah, this is the Kalvaria. I had seen this marked on the map, but didn't know what was located there. After climbing up a high hill, I still had to walk up about 40 steps to reach the top. Signage, provided in several languages, explains that the first church was built on this hill top in the 13th century. What existed here was destroyed when the Turks arrived in the mid-1500s. After they left, a small chapel was built and religious orders were charged with caring for the site.

Over time the religious orders left and the site was given to the free city of Pecs.  When the Communist government arrived the site was no longer cared for by anyone. Finally residents of Pecs formed a foundation to care for the site and keep in repair.

Turning around on this hill side I was rewarded with this landscape. Along the horizon are the Villany hills. Looking above the center vine on the wall one can see a dome peeking up. That is the top of the Szinhaz. Thus, I know my flat is basically right below where I am standing about one kilometer away-- and definitely all down hill!
A few more steps up the hill brough the sight of the Basilica towers peeking up. Since this is a huge church, the perspective here should give readers a feel for the hills in Pecs.
From here I headed back downhill and stopped for a cappucino at McDonalds. Then I was off to the Arkade to do some grocery shopping to last me for the next week. (On Saturday I fly to Berlin.)

Later in the afternoon I took off again for a short walk, mostly to check a poster about a concert to go to tomorrow evening. But I got sidetracked walking different places. I was surprised to see workmen still out doing street work at 5 PM on Saturday evening. You have to understand that nearly all businesses in Pecs, except restaurants close by at least 2 PM on Saturday afternoon.
On the corner I noticed a peksag (bakery) that I didn't know was there. This is only about a three minute walk out the door. Once the street is fixed, I'll probably be there a lot. The shorter the distance to carry food back to the flat, the better!

Another thing that intrigues me in Pecs, besides the many different kinds of street lamps, are the garage and courtyard doors.

Here is one I walk by frequently.

And here is a close up photo of one of the door medallions.


Here is another courtyard door in somewhat the same area.

And finally a sign of spring. Outdoor diners, but what you may not be able to see is the heater in the space. I plan to go back to this place tomorrow. If I have to plow through some heavy academic texts getting ready to teach a class, I mean to do in some comfort!

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